Part 2. West Coast and Mull

Saturday May 9
To start the day, a concentrated hour of final car packing and breakfast before leaving at 8 - in rain.This continued all morning, some of the showers were very heavy. Little Loch Broom has always been our coffee stop - after scanning the marsh near the Dundonell Hotel. The usual picnic spot brought a surprise. Two Gannets fishing below, one of them harried by a superb adult Great Skua. Both birds a new species for the area and, we’ve never seen a Bonxie tackle a Gannet before. Stopping to take a photograph of yet another stunning view,


we found a Raven sat on the bench. Hoping to photograph it, I quietly opened the window - and another car swept in and straight out again - as did the bird.
As we had ample time, we explored a dead end side track down to the lochside, signposted Durnamuck (what a name). Not really worth it - until we saw a Whinchat on the return journey.
Just a Great Northern Diver from the Gruinard layby, in pouring rain, so we decided to go on to Mellon Udrigle beach for lunch. Lunch was bought at Laide Post office/shop, again run by a non-Scot, many of the small shops we visit are. Just as we finished lunch, the rain stopped and we hastened to the beach down the stream-like boardwalk.

Our reward was....30 Dunlin, 6 Ringed Plover and close Red-throated and Great Northern Divers fishing in the fast ebbing tide . So many Wheatears around the whole area, the only place we ever see such a population density. The sheep field at the track entrance had a small flock of Twite.
On the Aultbea road to our B and B at Mellon Charles, we stopped at the Poolewe War Memorial lookout to admire the view.Two Guillemots and a GND below and a flock of 10 Twite in the adjacent field. Plus those black flies with dangling legs that we get at Titchwell.
After settling in to our room and chatting with Pauline and Phil, we drove the Inverasdale road from Poolewe. A beautiful GND fished close to the slipway where we turned round, photography hampered by rain and poor light - but I enjoyed it.

Sunday May 10
After an excellent breakfast, Phil is a very good cook, we drove to Rubha Reidh (pronounced Roo Ray and Red Point in Gaelic), a peninsula near Gairloch. It’s a narrow B road, 6 miles long with a small parking spot at the bottom of the steep ascent to the lighthouse. Despite the beautiful sunny weather, blue skies and enough clouds to make it interesting, sitting outside was chilly. We managed it for forty minutes, passing Auks, fishing Gannets and a group of eight GN Divers in the scope at once kept us interested. As did a welcome cup of coffee. A Whimbrel called from the lochside, Wheatears scolded us for encroaching on their territory and, a Golden Eagle soared along the ridge behind. Lovely.
We were rather short of fuel, forgetting that stations are few and far between along this coast - and most not open on a Sunday. The Gairloch Information Centre said that the fuel station at Kinlochewe would be open and there was no guarantee that the local one would be open early in the morning. First a visit to the 9 mile long peninsula off the A839, actually called Red Point in English. A very different area, attractively wooded with birch and oak along a racing river. Not surprising that we heard a Wood Warbler. Several attractive bays en route including the lovely Badachro.

As the terrain began to get bleaker and wilder, two Peregrines patrolled the ridge. Just before the road dropped to the end bay, there was a small parking place near a bench which is where we sat to eat the tremendous packed lunch Phil had prepared for us. The view was stupendous. A lovely - and deserted - sandy bay below, the Isle of Skye and the Cuillin mountains across the sea.

Wonderfully enhanced by the weather.

Our second Bonxie was the only bird we saw fly along the coast whilst we lunched.
The drive to Kinlochewe and fuel skirted Loch Maree, the whole route scenically awesome. We stopped at various lochside parking places on the return journey, seeing Grey Wagtail and able to photograph a Raven at last.


Rapidly back to Tranquility B and B for a shower before supper and to log on to the internet for the first time since leaving home. 174 Emails. Pauline had given me their WEP key and reception was only possible in the dining room so, I didn’t feel that I should stay too long - although nothing led me to think that. I just wiped the unwanted and saved others.
Couldn’t leave without taking a photograph of the view from my bed.

Monday May 11
Another beautiful day, what a pleasure to see the countryside at its best. Pauline and Phil volunteered to get breakfast early having sorted the best route to Oban for us. They’re great. Back towards Inverness until the Beauly road and Loch Ness. As we neared Fort William, the road swung round a corner and uncovered a stupendous view of the Ben Nevis mountain group, the tops snow covered and exposed, for the first time in our experience.

Reaching Oban in ample time for the 2.00 boat to Mull, we shopped and filled up with reasonably priced fuel at Tesco before joining the ferry queue. The CalMac boat left dead on 2.00 with no sign of the Tysties usually found in the harbour. Sitting on the rear deck was a pleasure, warm, sunny, windless and the sea was flat calm. We soon saw a sprinkling of Tysties before a flurry of activity brought a group of feeding Terns and Divers to our notice. At least eight Black Terns amongst the Common and one or two Sandwich.
We diverted to Grasspoint on the way to Fionnphort. No sign of the oldest established pair of White-tailed Eagles, we’d heard that they didn’t breed in 08, disturbed by a photographer who was fined £600. Our first Whitethroats and Blackcaps since May 1st though. A beautiful adult Golden Eagle gave us lengthy views, flying along the Glen More hillside above us.
Dumped our luggage at Seaview, had a chat with John, good to see him again, and drove the couple of miles to Fidden. We parked overlooking a lovely sandy, rocky bay and ate our evening meal watching Mountain Hares feeding and Black-tailed Godwits below. We’ve eaten so much in the last couple of days, we made do with cheese and biscuits. A long day, and an early night.

Tuesday May 12
A day out with Bryan of ‘Wild AboutMull’ wildlife tours. Bryan is a big Geordie who is very knowledgeable about wildlife in general, the history of the island - and can name all the islands we see offshore. I am impressed. It all makes for a very interesting and informative day out. It was a beautiful day, cloudless and sunny, cool first thing as there was more wind to-day - and an easterly to boot. Only two other passengers to-day, a pleasant couple it was a pleasure to spend the day with, Linda and David.
We set off at 10, Dunlin and Ringed Plover on the beach opposite our B and B. Fidden produced the expected Mountain Hares, Whimbrel and a single Black-tailed Godwit. The next diversion was to Uisken, evidence of the clearance caused by the potato blight in 1846 obvious in the number of ruined crofts scattered about. The population of ten thousand people living on Mull was halved in five years. The population is now three thousand, a third of them living in Tobermory. The road ends in a delightful secluded bay, very seaweed strewn to-day, a source of insects for the feeding Sand Martins and Swallows. The target Rock Pipit showed eventually as did 10+ Twite. A beautiful male Whinchat posed for Bryan’s camera and a Sedge Warbler performed its singing display flight.
Time for lunch. Bryan has permission to drive up a mountainside track on a private estate owned by a Dutchman. It’s a delightful spot. A lovely waterfall, mountain ridges close by and a sweeping view to the loch below. Considerably warmer by now too. A close male and a female Hen Harrier glided effortlessly by, two cuckoos chased about and, scope views of an adult Golden Eagle, hassled by a Raven, gave pleasure to all.
Along the scenic route to Salen, there is a White-tailed Eagle’s nest, viewable from a layby. The Female was on the nest, feeding her single chick, hatched on May 2. The nest was a bit overgrown this year, only her head and neck exposed in scope views.
The big Otter Hunt took up the major part of the afternoon. Bryan has seen several really well recently, including yesterday, to-day they were elusive. We drove the length of Loch Beg - unsuccessfully - to a spot overlooking the entrance to Loch na Keal where we parked and had stunning views of the offshore islands. One of the nearer -and greener - blobs was owned by the Mitford sisters who lived there some of the time. Our first sighting of Mull Red Deer in silhouette on top of a rocky outcrop.
Loch Scridain is very shallow and supports six Otters at the moment. One dog, one female with two cubs and another with one. Where were they all? At least the tide had come in appreciably by the return journey. Bryan’s assiduous scope searching found the dog otter, curled up asleep on the far shore.The coat is the rusty brown of the thick seaweed which lines the shore, very difficult to pick it out. Once found though, we had good views, it actually woke up and walked about a bit before settling down again. Well done that man. Bryan stopped to see if some Butterwort he'd spotted earlier in the week had flowered. Several patches of this plant - which we'd never seen before - nestled in long grass beside a wet ditch. Brian, Pam and Linda got out to photograph. I only had my long lens so I took this one from the van. A small plant with a rather insignificant flower.

Just Golden Plover added on the way home, having dropped off Linda and David at their hotel. Bryan offered a lift to two women walking along the road who turned out to be from the Abbey on Iona. They’d been to Camus for the day. We asked what Camus is and it seems to be a back to nature commune for inner city teenagers and sometimes older groups. No electricity, no oil, wind generated pump, natural foodstuffs etc. They were very enthusiastic but a bit concerned about missing the last boat to Iona. They didn’t.
Back just before six, we dumped our stuff and booked in at the pub/restaurant next door. It’s a first come place which can only cater for a certain number of people - despite having tables for many more. If you don’t get there at six, you could have to wait for an hour or two before being seated. Odd place, but the only eaterie -apart from one in Bunessan, which must be eight miles away.
John was kind enough to give me his WEP Key so that I could use their router to access the internet - and get this Blog done. Thank you.

Wednesday May 13
A glorious looking day marred by the very brisk easterly wind. Spending two hours amongst the iris beds between Iona Abbey and the Sound of Iona, the wind blowing directly at us, was most unpleasant. The scaffolding is still up on the Abbey, work scheduled to be completed by 2006....

At least six singing (!) male Corncrakes, so close we thought they might run over our feet any minute....I wish. No other birders around either. After a hot drink, we retired to the mainland, bought some food at the shop and drove to Fidden. The tide was at its lowest, no waders to-day and very little else. Even the Wheatears were hiding. On the return journey, two Whimbrel showed beside the road and a magnificent Mountain Hare sped effortlessly across a meadow, clearing a five foot ditch without changing stride. Awesome.
Whimbrel and
Running Mountain Hare

Lunch lochside, with the Golden Plovers near Bryan’s shop, the marsh there is good at a higher tide than to-day. A few miles further on, on the Salen road, we found a large rough area where we could park and view the White-tailed Eagle nest without occupying a passing place layby - and drawing attention to the nest. Everyone stops when they see birders parked as it often means eagles. Both adults were present, the male not immediately obvious as he was perched behind a branch which projects from the mass of twigs. The female’s head movements indicated that she was feeding the eaglet, the male must have just brought some food. Enjoying the view through my scope, I saw the male suddenly depart through the forest, he just dropped away. Pam saw him emerge and we watched him gradually gain height and soar away over the ridge. Fantastic. A memorable experience.
No otters on Loch Beg, tide still too low. Pam spotted a very pale, light phase Buzzard hovering over the hillside. It caused us a few ID problems at first, we've never seen such a pale one.

It then flew with a more usual dark phase bird, hanging together in the wind, a good chance to compare the two.

Off to Uisken and its beautiful beach where it’s possible to park virtually on it. It’s protected by a ring of rocks and cliffs, frequented by Sand Martins, Rock Pipit, three Common Terns, Twite and a horde of sheep and their bleating baby woollies. A lovely place to eat our evening meal whilst watching the tide come in. Just ourselves and a Motorhome containing two women and two dogs, parked in the far distance, to enjoy the tranquillity.

Thursday May 14
A tour of the island, including a visit to Tobermory, was planned. We set off soon after eight, taking the B road, west coast scenic route via Salen. A stop to admire the WTS Eagle on her nest but otherwise, a straight run, admiring the tremendous scenery whenever the narrow road, often with a perpendicular drop to one side, allowed.
Tobermory is described as the largest village on Mull, looks more like a small town to me. The curving parade of tall, mostly pastel coloured houses hugging a bay, are just as seen on TV. Even the one hotel painted black which caused such a fuss.

We walked the length of the seafront, drank a hot chocolate and bought some handmade chocolates in the Tobermory Chocolate shop, before driving back to Salen via the north and north west coast. Two Greylag and their delightful newly hatched chicks swam across a roadside loch.

The whole route was a figure of eight (John's suggestion). From Salen we drove the coast south to Craignure via Fishnish - on a road wide enough to take two cars. Bliss.
Couldn't resist a call to GrassPoint on the way back to Fionnphort. After a mainly cloudy day, the sun broke through and it all looked lovely again.
Evening snack at Fidden with the hares, Whimbrel and Lapwing chicks, 'home' in time for Eastenders.

Friday May 15

The day was better than the forecast,
just a few drops of rain twice - but cold, overcast and windy with some sun early afternoon. We didn't want to go any distance after yesterday, we decided on Carsaig, a site mentioned in the Mull Bird Report. After a visit to Fidden though, whilst waiting for the shop to open so that we could pick up yesterday's ordered newspapers. The papers don't arrive until mid-day and we were back well after 6 last night. No mobile nor pager reception here either. I got my first pager messages at tea time yesterday, at Craignure, since those at 4 on Monday. Just a couple of displaying Snipe, 2 Whimbrel and a Curlew at Fidden.

Carsaig was reached via a very narrow and steep lane through forest at first, then a level bit through moorland before the steep twisty descent to the 'pier'. The latter is a jumble of stones and two ruined buildings. We sat and scoped the steely grey sea, finding a GN Diver, two Tysties, a Swift battling low north, over the sea, against the wind and, a dozen Manx Shearwaters before we gave up the battle - eyes streaming. John - Seaview's co-owner - had said to wrap up warm to-day, it's like winter

After a stop at Penn y Ghael shop to buy an ice-cream and to view the Golden Plover, we drove along Loch Beg, scrutinising the shoreline. A sighting of two people doing a Graucho Marx walk towards the shore, brought us to a slow stop in a passing place quite a way from them, so that we didn't disturb whatever they were stalking. Right opposite us was the dog Otter, out on the shore. Just time to photograph it before it slid into the water. We then watched it catch at least 3 fish, munching them open-mouthed mid-stream. An ambition fulfilled.

Driving on, euphoric, we parked at a passing place to view the White-tailed Eagle nest. I had clear scope views of the female and fluffy Eaglet. She then flew to a tree about 50 metres away where she was joined by the male who'd sneaked in, unseen, through the trees. Wonderful.

Cheese and biscuits and fruit for lunch looking over Loch na Keal to Ulva before driving back to Seaview via a detour to Knocken - nothing there. A loo visit for both of us and I took the opportunity to download to-day's photos, should save some time to-night.

Our favourite Uisken drive for supper was preceded by a diversion to Kintra, a dead end road to a small bay. A lucky decision, a lovely female Hen Harrier hunted, one minute slow and deliberate, the next hurtling like a racing car, using the wind. I took photos of a constantly flying Cuckoo occasionally perching on a roadside wire,

and a male Bullfinch flew into a bush and straight out again. That's two new additions to the trip list to-day, didn't think any more were possible.
The beach at Uisken looked most uninviting to-night, gusting wind, grey and quite dark. Still lovely though. Back in our room by 7, ready for to-night's soaps.

Saturday May 16

We couldn't really decide what to do to-day but, a conversation at breakfast with Sue and Richard, newly arrived birders, made us decide on Scoor. They'd seen raptors there yesterday.

Our morning ritual of Fidden first, to see Hares , Whimbrel, Redshank and R B Mergansers. We also love the view across to the Isle of Erraid where RL Stevenson based 'Kidnapped'. The sandy bar is the escape route of his hero.

We met a birder doing a BTO Breeding Birds count - he hadn't seen the Whimbrel and told us we were looking at Lapwing ! Then he saw the birds.......

I was hoping for Hen Harrier photo opportunities at Kintra, we saw the bird but only briefly and distantly. A female Stonechat proved to be more obliging.

Couldn't pass Uisken....hoping for the Sanderling Bryan saw on the beach earlier. No luck. We made the visit to the well-advertised Ardalanish Isle of Mull weavers , arriving in a farmyard at the end of a track. A small and noisy shed where the mechanical loom was at work didn't keep us long - neither did the 'wee shop'. Pam picked up a cross between a specs case and a purse, saw the price, £20, quickly replaced it and walked out. The dog weed up our front tyre and we left.
Having left the cold bag in the bedroom, Pam shopped at the small Spar in Bunessan ( a collection of a few dozen houses round a bay). The road to Scoor is unmarked, a turning on the right after leaving Bunessan.The first mile or so was metalled, the next three were along a stony, potholed track climbing to moors past Loch Assapol and Harrisons Loch. There was a designated parking area for visitors - a small open area looking down on the lochs with a view to the sea in two directions, mountains between. Unfortunately, this morning was heavily overcast with rain of varying quantity most of the time. We walked for a while in a short respite, returning to the car just in time to miss the next lot.
Time for lunch. By the end of it, the rain had stopped, the skies gradually cleared and we ended up with a few hours of sunshine to scope anything moving - just several Buzzards - above the ridges. So occupied doing that, we nearly missed a male Hen Harrier hurrying through a gully. Great views down the glen.

Just as Pam was putting her scope up outside - I was scoping from the car - I called 'Look at that big b....r coming over the hill. A superb adult White-tailed Sea Eagle flew towards us, hassled by Buzzards then Hooded Crows.

They must get fed up.
It then landed on a small rock on the distant hillside for us to admire and attempt photos.

It flew around several times, settling and then rising again before flying off - we thought. Blow me, the one became two and they both returned to settle on the shores of Loch Assapol. We moved to get nearer but still not near enough for good photos unfortunately. There they loafed and so did we.

These photos really are not good enough... but they're mine of some wonderful birds. We must have watched for a total of two hours before driving off, leaving them there. Wonderful way to spend an afternoon.
In the middle of it all we heard that Man U are champions, shame they couldn't beat Arsenal, a mere draw. Having picked up the papers before the shop closed at 6 - and the forgotten cold bag from our room - we suppered at the empty Fidden camp site (a bare area beside the bay)watching Mountain Hares lolloping about.

Sunday May 17
As the wind had eased a little, maybe it was worth giving Iona another go. We caught the first ferry across at 8.45, walked up the hill towards the church and heard our first Corncrake. It appeared to be coming from the iris field behind the Fire Station - which we could just see by leaning on a wall. Immediately, a Corncrake flew across the field from one iris bed to another. Astonishing. After a walk along the top road past the Abbey towards the far end of the island, hearing more birds in the still very strong breeze, we returned for a cuppa and a gift shop browse before boarding the 11.15 ferry .
We hadn't stopped at Loch Na Keal on our round island tour, a further visit seemed propitious. The dog Otter was fishing busily in the ebbing tide at Loch Beg, catching something tasty every time he dived. Couldn't resist another look at the Sea Eagle nest, finding both birds present. The nest is very distant but......

The road around the very large sea Loch na Keal is narrow and rough, few passing places, one side the cliff, the other the sea, often protected by a metal barrier. We eventually found a grassy area where we could park for lunch and have a scope scan. Two Guillemots, one Tystie, one Red-throated and one Great Northern Diver. Six handsome Golden Plovers flew in and landed amongst the sheep for a few minutes before moving on.
Our last Mackies ice-cream at PennyGhael stores and a final visit to Uisken and Fidden. It was raining quite heavily by the time we reached Fidden, one of those late afternoons when you want to switch the light on. A mixed flock of Ringed Plover and Dunlin fed busily on the beach and a lone Swift swept through. Back to find no parking space for the car, it's in front of the Post Office to-night. The ever thoughtful John offered to park his car round the back but where we are is fine. We ate at the pub/restaurant next door for a change and now it's packing time. It's been a very enjoyable and rewarding trip, Jane and John run a most comfortable and welcoming establishment. We love our room, Erraid. Here's to next year.

Faces of Scotland

Lichen

Part 1. Norfolk - Carrbridge and The Highlands

Thursday April 30
We left home at 5.01 a.m.and were at Scotch Corner - to breakfast in the car park - by 9.22. We left at 9.45, passing the Scottish border at 9.48, 340 miles from home. Now we could start listing.
Skateraw harbour is one of our favourite places to stop, a sweeping sandy beach, rocky headlands and a frequently empty car park.

This morning there were two cars of dog walkers and the loos were locked. The constant stream of passing Gannets is a delight. Apart from a few Eider, Curlew and Shelduck and a female Wheatear, there were few birds. The tide was very low - which may have explained it. After a coffee, we drove to the north end of the bay and walked the tussocky grass to the headland in a strong wind. This added a Common Whitethroat, a Reed Bunting and fishing Sandwich Terns to the list. It was good to walk.
North Berwick is a most attractive Scottish seaside town with the obligatory, splendid, Links golf course. Our destination was the Seabird Centre where it is possible to walk around to a headland overlooking an island where Auks and Gulls nest. Bass Rock is distantly viewable, absolutely covered in nesting Gannets with hundreds more wheeling above and flying by
View from the shore

Bass Rock from the shore - photo using my DCM (Digital Camera Module through my Zeiss 84 scope)

We added Puffin, Razorbill, Guillemot, Fulmar and Kittiwakes here.
A leisurely drive along the south Forth coast towards Edinburgh with several stops, including Aberlady Bay and Longniddry. The latter offers extensive views of the Firth, where we found Red Breasted Mergansers, Common Scoter and a distant flock of Knot.
Our overnight stop is at Dreghorn, Edinburgh, Travel Lodge. Familiar and comfortable.
Me at my Laptop - a sneaky pic by Pam!



Friday May 1
No need for an early start, so it was 8.23 before we left for Loch Leven and the RSPB Vane Farm Reserve. A convenient gateway gave us scope views over the most distant part of the reserve, where there were at least 30 Mute Swans, unusual apparently. One Coot, many Tufted Duck and a few Wigeon.
Fortunately we then ate breakfast in the Vane Farm car park - it didn’t open until 10. A Blackcap sang between the car park and the centre and Pam saw a Blue Tit come out of the cigarette end box mounted on the wall. Apparently it’s nesting in there.

Blue Tit Nestbox

After a chat with the warden, we walked a small part of the woodland trail (very hilly) before climbing down to the first hide overlooking the lake. Four Pink-footed Geese remained from the thousands seen a few days before and, a few Greylag Geese. The latter look very svelte compared with the farmyard types at home. One Buzzard over the distant shore, a pair of lingering Goldeneye and three more Coot. The latter are usually gone by now too. The first of what was to become several, squally showers hit. As soon as it was over we retreated to the upstairs cafe/viewing area for a hot drink and a scope view of the Loch.
The warden had told us of two places further round the loch where we could park and view. The first stop involved too far a walk so we drove on to Burleigh Sands. Braving the blustery wind, we took the short walk to the shore and were rewarded with a close flock of around 30 Swifts accompanied by a few Swallows and Martins. Our first Swifts of the year which soon swirled away, they must have been well on passage. What an opportune time to arrive.

Methil/Leven Bay via Glenrothes, a beachside car park with great views of the sea, rocks and bay.

The last time I was here, I dressed my open wound knee replacements -after seeing a Masked Shrike - whilst Pam got me a bacon bap. We viewed for over two hours whilst the wind raged, rain pelted down and the sea grew ever choppier. The rain came from Pam’s side so I was able to have my window open to scope. It did ease from time to time and before we left, Pam stood out with her scope so that she could see the birds as well as I had. So many Lesser Black-backed Gulls amongst the Herring Gulls loafing at the river mouth and on the beach, wing colour ranging from palish grey to almost black.

Approximately 200 Common Scoter and, in a seperate flock, excellent views of 12 + Velvet Scoters. A few Long-tailed Ducks in their summer finery and, piece de resistance, an adult male Surf Scoter, brilliant yellow beak and white nape clearly visible. A few Guillemots and Razorbills amongst the constant passage of Gannets - once the rain eased, Bass Rock was clearly visible. Eiders appear everywhere as do Red-breasted Merganser.

A Surfing Male Eider


Dragging ourselves away, we drove to Dundee via St Andrews, stopping for a cuppa way out at the harbour entrance of Crail. Another lovely viewing spot but, with few birds. Finding the Travel Lodge in Dundee was an adventure as we entered via the Taybridge and the Lodge was on the A90. We just followed the signs for Coupar Angus, amazed to find no signs at all for the - major route - A90, until we reached it. A small lodge but newer than last night’s and better appointed.

Saturday May 2
We were awake, so we left the Lodge at 6.05 and arrived at Newburgh Golf Course at 7.40. A quick turn round from both there and the Anglers car park - a very high tide on the Ythan, just a myriad Eiders and a few Sandwich Terns. The same at Waulkmill, a Common Tern added to the list and about 150 Pinkfeet feeding in the field opposite. Even our beloved Collieston

was lacking variety and numbers. A single Red-throated Diver and one Guillemot on the sea, a Rock Pipit showed briefly. The visit to Meikle Loch was just as brief.
Bullars of Buchan came up trumps though. A mere quarter of a mile walk along the , admittedly, narrow and rough clifftop path, brought views of all three Auks, nesting Shags, Fulmar and Kittiwakes. All photographable but the latter three were in full shade.

View of Bullars cliffs

Puffin, Shags, Guillemots and Razorbills

We parked at Starnafin Farm RSPB Centre at 10.45 having added Corn Bunting on the approach road. We’ve never seen as many cars there, only three men in the Centre viewing area though.The feeders near the small garden outside hold Tree Sparrow, the only site in Scotland known to us. A Little Ringed Plover and a Black-tailed Godwit were the only waders, a male Green-winged Teal (at last)slept amongst the half a dozen others at the back of the pool.
Back to the main road in order to access Fen Hide which overlooks Loch of Strathbeg, a circuitous approach through industrial buildings, skirting an old airport - avoiding the many sheep and their scatty lambs. The approach to the hide is through gorse scrub, heavy with its buttery summer smell. Then, a longish boardwalk through swampy sallow bushes. A very good hour produced one Great White Egret, 7 Whooper Swans, one Shoveller and then.....500 of the thousand or so Pinkfeet in a distant field rose and flew down to the loch to bathe.The solitary white phase Snow Goose amongst them showed brightly both in flight and on the water, the Blue Phase showed less well as did the 3 Barnacle Geese. Back to the Centre to use the loo and to eat lunch before the 700 meters walk to Tower Pool Hide, our first visit there. By now the sun was warm but the wind had increased. A very nice hide overlooking an extensive marshy/multi flood area scattered with wildfowl and the most waders yet. Spotted Redshank was a Scottish tick as was a Pectoral Sandpiper. A couple of Ruff, a few Dunlin and one Redshank added to the view as did two distant Marsh Harriers quartering the reed beds.
Time to make tracks for Carrbridge, the drive took two and a half hours on very sharply bending cross-country roads. A and B had gone off with the keys to Silver Birch so we had to find Lindsay for the spares. Our first Red Squirrel raided the nuts near the Hotel and then ran across our bit of field. Delightful.
Red Squirrel

After shopping in Tesco at Aviemore, we ate at an Australian restaurant, the Roo’s Leap, manned by Scots! We’re both tired to-night, the reason we didn’t prolong our journey here by going on to Burghead. The latter is planned for to-morrow morning when it's high tide.

Sunday May 3
A much appreciated leisurely start after the last few days. We didn’t leave until after 9 o’clock. The Maltings end of Burghead Bay is a noted birding spot, we twitched a November Grey-tailed Tattler here some years ago. I settled to scope from the car window and almost immediately spotted a juvenile Great Northern Diver and the Yellow-billed Diver target bird. Pam rushed outside with her scope but the birds had drifted right and further out on the receding tide. We did re-locate them, thank goodness. It was great to see both birds together, the juv GND with its silver, straight pointing, bill, the Yellow-billed glistening golden and, slightly upward pointing. A group of arriving birders had seen an Iceland Gull at Lossiemouth yesterday so we gave it a go. No sign of one anywhere.
Loch Flemington added one Little Grebe to the trip list but very little else around. We saw an Otter here last year........just a dead Badger this time!
Until now the day had been bright with a brisk wind keeping the temperature down. We had seen clouds dropping rain in the distance but our first squall was as we arrived at Alturlie. The roaring wind lashed the rain which had some hail in it, against the passenger side of the car. Pam’s window and roadside remained dry....as did the entire road just two hundred metres further on. The tide was at its lowest, the only interesting bird, Hooded Crow.

A surprise Red Kite flew overhead as we drove along the A9 just south of Inverness.
Layby 151 on the A9 south of Inverness did not keep us long. We were looking for the regular Ring Ouzel on the steep hillside. The fast and, heavy volume, traffic makes so much noise that it drives me mad - so I depart.
A short visit to the chalet and then, another of our favourite drives, along Lochindorb. No sign of any Divers on the way north up the lochside but one Black-throated preening and washing on the way back south. We must have seen a dozen Red Grouse with several display flights and half a dozen Common Sandpipers along the loch shore.

Male Red Grouse and Common Sandpiper

A pair of Red-breasted Mergansers silhouetted against the dropping sun and a Short-eared Owl flew off a roadside post onto one further away on our approach. No room to stop and photograph, too much hurtling traffic.
Station Road was empty of the usual Golden Plover resting on the meadow during migration, maybe another day....
The weather forecast for the later part of the week is pretty dire, we shall have to try for the specialities in the next couple of days.


Monday May 4

Capercaillie morning. Up at 4.40, away by 5.10, queueing at Loch Garten RSPB by 6.25. We’re not as fast as others, all the viewing hatches were occupied by the time we got to the hide, we had to crane for a view past two very fidgety women who kept changing position. Whilst waiting, the ospreys took pride of place. EJ was sitting on the eggs and her mate on watch in the camera tree when an intruder flew in and disturbed the scene.
View of Osprey Nest from the RSPB Hide

View of EJ sitting using DCM

The good news... we were in pole position when the warden at the forward hide arrived to announce he’d take the first ten to look through a scope he’d got trained on a male Caper. Excellent - even if the view was distant - it was of a complete bird. So often it is a head and a beak. I spent 5 minutes photographing delightful Red Squirrels on the feeders near the centre entrance. The warden called them tree rats....which is right really but, they’re very attractive ones.
Tulloch Moor next for a single male Black Grouse which soon flew away. We were the only viewers this morning.
Time for breakfast but we returned the ‘pretty way’ via Lochindorb. Mainly so that I could try some photography when the light was the right way, no sun at all though. This lovely Wheatear posed on the loch beach.


After eating, the very attractive drive to the Cairngorm funicular, through pine forest at first, past Lake Morlich and then, rugged mountainside, to the parking area. The funicular is fast, comfortable and non-scary in comparison with the chairlifts of the past. We managed, for the second year, to see a male Ring Ouzel on the way up. No more Layby 151......
Straight to the viewing area and an almost gale force wind. Still patches of snow around the Ptarmigan restaurant - the wall thermometer read 2.25C and it felt like it.

We took a side each to scan and Pam spotted two Ptarmigan below which showed well in the scope - which I had to hold down. After a welcome hot chocolate and a browse in the shop, down again and a drive to Findhorn Valley. We lunched at the river confluence where we usually see Dipper. No sign of it to-day but a lovely Grey Wagtail. We did see a Dipper just past the deer farm at a river bridge. Not at all hopeful of seeing any raptors in the very strong wind......and we didn’t. Apart from a Kestrel. However, we did add a Raven, hugging the ridge above us.
As usual, no birds on the Farr Road which is an experience in itself but, the best way to drive to Loch Ruthven, there’s always hope. Not even a Cuckoo to-day. A welcome improvement is that I don’t have to get out to open the gates, they have a cattle grid-protected, rough side way.
Loch Ruthven was extremely choppy with no birds in view from the car park.

Me walking to the hide (another sneaky pic)

We had to brave the wind again to walk the tree root, rock strewn, track to the hide, along the sloping banks of the loch. One Slavonian Grebe hove into view and we saw another on the walk back. We’ve never seen as few before but the reeds are still not tall enough for them to nest. Too early I reckon.
To-morrow’s plans depend on the weather forecast, which doesn’t look good.

Tuesday May 5
To-day’s plan was to look for the elusive Crested Tit, reportedly very scarce this year. Maybe the very cold and snowy winter? -15C during the day for ten days and, -22C at night. We walked down the side of Loch Garten to Loch Mallachie, an over two miles round trip through Scots pine, prime territory. No sign at all. We added Goldcrest to the week’s list, the rest was the usual Coal Tit, Chaffinch and Willow Warbler. It was quite sheltered in the forest but we met a howling wind at L Mallachie.
We see Mistle Thrushes every day, a real Highland bird.

Wednesday May 6
A better looking day than forecast. We made an early departure for Culbin Forest, our last Crested Tit attempt. I saw a Peregrine just after we left the Lochindorb road but Pam couldn’t stop in time.
Wellhill parking, at the east end of Culbin Forest first. Then, a good walk as far as the small, partially tree hung, ex gravel pit. More a pond really. At the far end, I heard a loud chip and there was a family of five Scottish/Parrot Crossbills above us, one young begging for food. A surprise Jay had flown across in front of us as we left the car. A Scottish tick I believe. Back to move on to Cloddymoss,the western forest entrance, this one has some deciduous trees. A Blackcap sang and flew from post to post and a superb male Redstart was actively feeding - silently.
The steady rain began at Nairn. What to do now? All the options we explored were not much use in the conditions so we made for petrol at Tesco, Inverness, via Alturlie. The tide was still in, although ebbing fast. A scope scan to lee brought views of a small flock of 15 Long-tailed Ducks and 8 Scaup, 2 male, 6 females. We saw 300 of the latter here two years ago.As the sky looked more promising, we gave Findhorn Valley a go. Although the visibility was quite good and the rain lighter, no birds flew apart from 2 Curlew and a Ring Ouzel. The herd of shaggy feral goats was on view but very few Red Deer to-day.
Back to listen to Test Match Special and download Pam’s photographs.

Thursday May 7
My favourite trip to-day, along the east coast to Dunnet Head via Loch Fleet, Helmsdale and Thurso - and I wasn’t disappointed. Setting off in rain at 4.44 a.m., and then, meeting squally sleet showers , the car lashed by a very strong wind, was not an auspicious start. There were already notices of gales posted for the Kessock Bridge. It didn’t actually stop raining until after Loch Fleet where we stopped at The Mound for an early breakfast. The Mound pool had two feeding Greenshanks to pad the thin wader trip list. The local Osprey had flown overhead earlier, too fast to photograph.
The road north skirts the coast until the turning inland towards Thurso. The sea was magnificent in its wind driven turmoil. Awesome.
No birds of note until we stopped at Dunnet Bay and Castletown. The bay was a mass of choppy, white-topped breakers, the wind blowing the tops back the way they came. Dozens of Gannets dived around us,

at least a hundred Terns of three varieties patrolled the bay entry and a flock of Dunlin and Ringed Plover scudded restlessly around from one part of the beach to another. I want to tell them to save their energy. None of the usual Divers, Auks and Skuas to-day. Where are they? The pager is atill reporting numbers of Skuas flying north along the west coast so, maybe they haven’t arrived yet? We’re no earlier than other years when we’ve always seen Bonxie and Arctic.
After a short debate, we decided to attempt the exposed three and a half mile drive to Dunnet Head. Stopping off at St Johns, we walked to the hide, barely able to stand in the wind. Just some lovely Arctic Terns disputing nesting sites with Black-headed Gulls for our efforts - and a Starling taking nesting material to its concrete nesthole.

We also walked to the cliff edge at the Head, protected by some railings on which we leaned to try and keep our bins still, The forecast Force 8 gale had arrived here.
We usually return by a different route, across the Flow Country via Forsinard, maybe it would be reasonable in the wind, although it’s very exposed and bleak at it’s highest ranges.
A White Wagtail strutted its stuff across a stream bridge

We lunched as soon as there was a convenient spot, stopped at the RSPB centre (in the station) to use the conveniences and bemoan the lack of birds. I actually dozed off.....About 3 miles north of Helmsdale, on the A897, I opened my eyes and saw two raptors, one large and one small, rise over the ridge. There was a convenient passing place in which to stop, in time to see a 1st winter Golden Eagle being mobbed by a Buzzard. Great. The Buzz really did look small next to the Eagle. We also saw a Peregrine, Pam’s catchup, and another Raven.
The Mound again for a leg stretch and a cuppa. Pam wanted to try the loop track via Bonar Bridge which Bridget and Aileen had told us about. I didn’t think it was very sensible to add miles at this stage of a long day but....off we went. A birch lined track soon gave way to bleak moorland. It seemed a long way and was birdless to boot! Pam nearly back-tracked, just as the loch which is a the halfway point hove into view, we continued. Well on the way down the hillside, a parked car, its occupants standing outside with scope, bins and long lens camera gave us a clue that they might be on to something ! They’d been watching a Golden Eagle for the past hour. It soon re-appeared and we watched it flying, occasionally landing on the ground, then being mobbed by a Red Kite. A wonderful interlude and well worth the extra miles. Sorry Pam......
Apart from a small group of Twite a little further down the dale, no more stops until Tesco for fuel. Two more Red Kites near the Tore roundabout.
More rain and gales forecast for to-night.

Friday May 8
After a leisurely start, a third visit to Station Road came up trumps. Five Golden Plover rose and flew off, strongly, as we arrived.
Having realised that I had not photographed one of the area’s most common birds, Siskin, and the speciality, Osprey, we went on to Loch Garten. The Siskins at the feeders there are much tamer than ours at the chalet.

EJ, the female, was sitting on the eggs high up in the distant tree, her head just showing aover the top. No sign of Odin, the new male, named for a Scandinavian god as he’s thought to come from there. As he’s unringed it’s an educated guess.
The warden manning the kiosk at Garten had told us that Crested Tits had been seen at Hayfield in Glenmore Forest. We parked there, started walking, heard and saw a Tree Pipit and down came the rain. We didn’t fancy getting wet, so drove on to Glen Feshie and Uath Lochans, a new place for us. Sitting having lunch in the parking area, a Treecreeper flew in to the tree next to the car, shortly followed by a male Redstart. We decided to do the white trail, just under a mile in length, around the lochans. For the first time, a Redstart actually sang to advertise its presence, as did two Tree Pipits perched on top of small firs. A party of Common Crossbills, including three red males, chipped their way across the clearing. A good place, we’ll come again. On to our usual spot in Glen Feshie where a Mountain Hare lolloped its way along the river bank. A most surprising place to find one. Just past the Kincraig road, two Ospreys flew overhead, probably going to Loch Insh. I took a hasty shot through the open sunroof as one flew overhead.

Making a quick decision, we decided to go on the funicular to the tops again. Unfortunately we just missed a train so the time available was the minimum. So much snow , even down to the car park. We braved the viewing platform for a very short time - the snow hadn’t been cleared, we had to squelch through it - and the wind was bone chilling. After a hot drink, the return ride. A handsome male Ring Ouzel posed boulder top and a Raven flew across the car parking area.
Our last outing was Lochindorb for the regular Red Grouse viewing and both Black-throated Divers, one sitting on the nest, the other close by. Unfortunately, the other side of the loch. A male Wheatear fed amongst the pebbles at the edge of the loch and a Kestrel hovered above the treeline. Six Buzzards had an aerial altercation, talon grappling and jockeying for position before dispersing.
Lochindorb

To cap a lovely day, we heard Strauss score the winning runs to beat the West Indies by 10 wickets in the first test match.