To start the day, a concentrated hour of final car packing and breakfast before leaving at 8 - in rain.This continued all morning, some of the showers were very heavy. Little Loch Broom has always been our coffee stop - after scanning the marsh near the Dundonell Hotel. The usual picnic spot brought a surprise. Two Gannets fishing below, one of them harried by a superb adult Great Skua. Both birds a new species for the area and, we’ve never seen a Bonxie tackle a Gannet before. Stopping to take a photograph of yet another stunning view,
we found a Raven sat on the bench. Hoping to photograph it, I quietly opened the window - and another car swept in and straight out again - as did the bird.
As we had ample time, we explored a dead end side track down to the lochside, signposted Durnamuck (what a name). Not really worth it - until we saw a Whinchat on the return journey.
Just a Great Northern Diver from the Gruinard layby, in pouring rain, so we decided to go on to Mellon Udrigle beach for lunch. Lunch was bought at Laide Post office/shop, again run by a non-Scot, many of the small shops we visit are. Just as we finished lunch, the rain stopped and we hastened to the beach down the stream-like boardwalk.
Our reward was....30 Dunlin, 6 Ringed Plover and close Red-throated and Great Northern Divers fishing in the fast ebbing tide . So many Wheatears around the whole area, the only place we ever see such a population density. The sheep field at the track entrance had a small flock of Twite.
On the Aultbea road to our B and B at Mellon Charles, we stopped at the Poolewe War Memorial lookout to admire the view.Two Guillemots and a GND below and a flock of 10 Twite in the adjacent field. Plus those black flies with dangling legs that we get at Titchwell.
After settling in to our room and chatting with Pauline and Phil, we drove the Inverasdale road from Poolewe. A beautiful GND fished close to the slipway where we turned round, photography hampered by rain and poor light - but I enjoyed it.
Sunday May 10
After an excellent breakfast, Phil is a very good cook, we drove to Rubha Reidh (pronounced Roo Ray and Red Point in Gaelic), a peninsula near Gairloch. It’s a narrow B road, 6 miles long with a small parking spot at the bottom of the steep ascent to the lighthouse. Despite the beautiful sunny weather, blue skies and enough clouds to make it interesting, sitting outside was chilly. We managed it for forty minutes, passing Auks, fishing Gannets and a group of eight GN Divers in the scope at once kept us interested. As did a welcome cup of coffee. A Whimbrel called from the lochside, Wheatears scolded us for encroaching on their territory and, a Golden Eagle soared along the ridge behind. Lovely.
We were rather short of fuel, forgetting that stations are few and far between along this coast - and most not open on a Sunday. The Gairloch Information Centre said that the fuel station at Kinlochewe would be open and there was no guarantee that the local one would be open early in the morning. First a visit to the 9 mile long peninsula off the A839, actually called Red Point in English. A very different area, attractively wooded with birch and oak along a racing river. Not surprising that we heard a Wood Warbler. Several attractive bays en route including the lovely Badachro.
As the terrain began to get bleaker and wilder, two Peregrines patrolled the ridge. Just before the road dropped to the end bay, there was a small parking place near a bench which is where we sat to eat the tremendous packed lunch Phil had prepared for us. The view was stupendous. A lovely - and deserted - sandy bay below, the Isle of Skye and the Cuillin mountains across the sea.
Wonderfully enhanced by the weather.
Our second Bonxie was the only bird we saw fly along the coast whilst we lunched.
The drive to Kinlochewe and fuel skirted Loch Maree, the whole route scenically awesome. We stopped at various lochside parking places on the return journey, seeing Grey Wagtail and able to photograph a Raven at last.
Rapidly back to Tranquility B and B for a shower before supper and to log on to the internet for the first time since leaving home. 174 Emails. Pauline had given me their WEP key and reception was only possible in the dining room so, I didn’t feel that I should stay too long - although nothing led me to think that. I just wiped the unwanted and saved others.
Couldn’t leave without taking a photograph of the view from my bed.
Monday May 11
Another beautiful day, what a pleasure to see the countryside at its best. Pauline and Phil volunteered to get breakfast early having sorted the best route to Oban for us. They’re great. Back towards Inverness until the Beauly road and Loch Ness. As we neared Fort William, the road swung round a corner and uncovered a stupendous view of the Ben Nevis mountain group, the tops snow covered and exposed, for the first time in our experience.
Reaching Oban in ample time for the 2.00 boat to Mull, we shopped and filled up with reasonably priced fuel at Tesco before joining the ferry queue. The CalMac boat left dead on 2.00 with no sign of the Tysties usually found in the harbour. Sitting on the rear deck was a pleasure, warm, sunny, windless and the sea was flat calm. We soon saw a sprinkling of Tysties before a flurry of activity brought a group of feeding Terns and Divers to our notice. At least eight Black Terns amongst the Common and one or two Sandwich.
We diverted to Grasspoint on the way to Fionnphort. No sign of the oldest established pair of White-tailed Eagles, we’d heard that they didn’t breed in 08, disturbed by a photographer who was fined £600. Our first Whitethroats and Blackcaps since May 1st though. A beautiful adult Golden Eagle gave us lengthy views, flying along the Glen More hillside above us.
Dumped our luggage at Seaview, had a chat with John, good to see him again, and drove the couple of miles to Fidden. We parked overlooking a lovely sandy, rocky bay and ate our evening meal watching Mountain Hares feeding and Black-tailed Godwits below. We’ve eaten so much in the last couple of days, we made do with cheese and biscuits. A long day, and an early night.
Tuesday May 12
A day out with Bryan of ‘Wild AboutMull’ wildlife tours. Bryan is a big Geordie who is very knowledgeable about wildlife in general, the history of the island - and can name all the islands we see offshore. I am impressed. It all makes for a very interesting and informative day out. It was a beautiful day, cloudless and sunny, cool first thing as there was more wind to-day - and an easterly to boot. Only two other passengers to-day, a pleasant couple it was a pleasure to spend the day with, Linda and David.
We set off at 10, Dunlin and Ringed Plover on the beach opposite our B and B. Fidden produced the expected Mountain Hares, Whimbrel and a single Black-tailed Godwit. The next diversion was to Uisken, evidence of the clearance caused by the potato blight in 1846 obvious in the number of ruined crofts scattered about. The population of ten thousand people living on Mull was halved in five years. The population is now three thousand, a third of them living in Tobermory. The road ends in a delightful secluded bay, very seaweed strewn to-day, a source of insects for the feeding Sand Martins and Swallows. The target Rock Pipit showed eventually as did 10+ Twite. A beautiful male Whinchat posed for Bryan’s camera and a Sedge Warbler performed its singing display flight.
Time for lunch. Bryan has permission to drive up a mountainside track on a private estate owned by a Dutchman. It’s a delightful spot. A lovely waterfall, mountain ridges close by and a sweeping view to the loch below. Considerably warmer by now too. A close male and a female Hen Harrier glided effortlessly by, two cuckoos chased about and, scope views of an adult Golden Eagle, hassled by a Raven, gave pleasure to all.
Along the scenic route to Salen, there is a White-tailed Eagle’s nest, viewable from a layby. The Female was on the nest, feeding her single chick, hatched on May 2. The nest was a bit overgrown this year, only her head and neck exposed in scope views.
The big Otter Hunt took up the major part of the afternoon. Bryan has seen several really well recently, including yesterday, to-day they were elusive. We drove the length of Loch Beg - unsuccessfully - to a spot overlooking the entrance to Loch na Keal where we parked and had stunning views of the offshore islands. One of the nearer -and greener - blobs was owned by the Mitford sisters who lived there some of the time. Our first sighting of Mull Red Deer in silhouette on top of a rocky outcrop.
Loch Scridain is very shallow and supports six Otters at the moment. One dog, one female with two cubs and another with one. Where were they all? At least the tide had come in appreciably by the return journey. Bryan’s assiduous scope searching found the dog otter, curled up asleep on the far shore.The coat is the rusty brown of the thick seaweed which lines the shore, very difficult to pick it out. Once found though, we had good views, it actually woke up and walked about a bit before settling down again. Well done that man. Bryan stopped to see if some Butterwort he'd spotted earlier in the week had flowered. Several patches of this plant - which we'd never seen before - nestled in long grass beside a wet ditch. Brian, Pam and Linda got out to photograph. I only had my long lens so I took this one from the van. A small plant with a rather insignificant flower.
Just Golden Plover added on the way home, having dropped off Linda and David at their hotel. Bryan offered a lift to two women walking along the road who turned out to be from the Abbey on Iona. They’d been to Camus for the day. We asked what Camus is and it seems to be a back to nature commune for inner city teenagers and sometimes older groups. No electricity, no oil, wind generated pump, natural foodstuffs etc. They were very enthusiastic but a bit concerned about missing the last boat to Iona. They didn’t.
Back just before six, we dumped our stuff and booked in at the pub/restaurant next door. It’s a first come place which can only cater for a certain number of people - despite having tables for many more. If you don’t get there at six, you could have to wait for an hour or two before being seated. Odd place, but the only eaterie -apart from one in Bunessan, which must be eight miles away.
John was kind enough to give me his WEP Key so that I could use their router to access the internet - and get this Blog done. Thank you.
Wednesday May 13
A glorious looking day marred by the very brisk easterly wind. Spending two hours amongst the iris beds between Iona Abbey and the Sound of Iona, the wind blowing directly at us, was most unpleasant. The scaffolding is still up on the Abbey, work scheduled to be completed by 2006....
At least six singing (!) male Corncrakes, so close we thought they might run over our feet any minute....I wish. No other birders around either. After a hot drink, we retired to the mainland, bought some food at the shop and drove to Fidden. The tide was at its lowest, no waders to-day and very little else. Even the Wheatears were hiding. On the return journey, two Whimbrel showed beside the road and a magnificent Mountain Hare sped effortlessly across a meadow, clearing a five foot ditch without changing stride. Awesome.
Whimbrel and
Running Mountain Hare
Lunch lochside, with the Golden Plovers near Bryan’s shop, the marsh there is good at a higher tide than to-day. A few miles further on, on the Salen road, we found a large rough area where we could park and view the White-tailed Eagle nest without occupying a passing place layby - and drawing attention to the nest. Everyone stops when they see birders parked as it often means eagles. Both adults were present, the male not immediately obvious as he was perched behind a branch which projects from the mass of twigs. The female’s head movements indicated that she was feeding the eaglet, the male must have just brought some food. Enjoying the view through my scope, I saw the male suddenly depart through the forest, he just dropped away. Pam saw him emerge and we watched him gradually gain height and soar away over the ridge. Fantastic. A memorable experience.
No otters on Loch Beg, tide still too low. Pam spotted a very pale, light phase Buzzard hovering over the hillside. It caused us a few ID problems at first, we've never seen such a pale one.
It then flew with a more usual dark phase bird, hanging together in the wind, a good chance to compare the two.
Off to Uisken and its beautiful beach where it’s possible to park virtually on it. It’s protected by a ring of rocks and cliffs, frequented by Sand Martins, Rock Pipit, three Common Terns, Twite and a horde of sheep and their bleating baby woollies. A lovely place to eat our evening meal whilst watching the tide come in. Just ourselves and a Motorhome containing two women and two dogs, parked in the far distance, to enjoy the tranquillity.
Thursday May 14
A tour of the island, including a visit to Tobermory, was planned. We set off soon after eight, taking the B road, west coast scenic route via Salen. A stop to admire the WTS Eagle on her nest but otherwise, a straight run, admiring the tremendous scenery whenever the narrow road, often with a perpendicular drop to one side, allowed.
Tobermory is described as the largest village on Mull, looks more like a small town to me. The curving parade of tall, mostly pastel coloured houses hugging a bay, are just as seen on TV. Even the one hotel painted black which caused such a fuss.
We walked the length of the seafront, drank a hot chocolate and bought some handmade chocolates in the Tobermory Chocolate shop, before driving back to Salen via the north and north west coast. Two Greylag and their delightful newly hatched chicks swam across a roadside loch.
The whole route was a figure of eight (John's suggestion). From Salen we drove the coast south to Craignure via Fishnish - on a road wide enough to take two cars. Bliss.
Couldn't resist a call to GrassPoint on the way back to Fionnphort. After a mainly cloudy day, the sun broke through and it all looked lovely again.
Evening snack at Fidden with the hares, Whimbrel and Lapwing chicks, 'home' in time for Eastenders.
Friday May 15
The day was better than the forecast,
just a few drops of rain twice - but cold, overcast and windy with some sun early afternoon. We didn't want to go any distance after yesterday, we decided on Carsaig, a site mentioned in the Mull Bird Report. After a visit to Fidden though, whilst waiting for the shop to open so that we could pick up yesterday's ordered newspapers. The papers don't arrive until mid-day and we were back well after 6 last night. No mobile nor pager reception here either. I got my first pager messages at tea time yesterday, at Craignure, since those at 4 on Monday. Just a couple of displaying Snipe, 2 Whimbrel and a Curlew at Fidden.
Carsaig was reached via a very narrow and steep lane through forest at first, then a level bit through moorland before the steep twisty descent to the 'pier'. The latter is a jumble of stones and two ruined buildings. We sat and scoped the steely grey sea, finding a GN Diver, two Tysties, a Swift battling low north, over the sea, against the wind and, a dozen Manx Shearwaters before we gave up the battle - eyes streaming. John - Seaview's co-owner - had said to wrap up warm to-day, it's like winter
After a stop at Penn y Ghael shop to buy an ice-cream and to view the Golden Plover, we drove along Loch Beg, scrutinising the shoreline. A sighting of two people doing a Graucho Marx walk towards the shore, brought us to a slow stop in a passing place quite a way from them, so that we didn't disturb whatever they were stalking. Right opposite us was the dog Otter, out on the shore. Just time to photograph it before it slid into the water. We then watched it catch at least 3 fish, munching them open-mouthed mid-stream. An ambition fulfilled.
Driving on, euphoric, we parked at a passing place to view the White-tailed Eagle nest. I had clear scope views of the female and fluffy Eaglet. She then flew to a tree about 50 metres away where she was joined by the male who'd sneaked in, unseen, through the trees. Wonderful.Cheese and biscuits and fruit for lunch looking over Loch na Keal to Ulva before driving back to Seaview via a detour to Knocken - nothing there. A loo visit for both of us and I took the opportunity to download to-day's photos, should save some time to-night.
Our favourite Uisken drive for supper was preceded by a diversion to Kintra, a dead end road to a small bay. A lucky decision, a lovely female Hen Harrier hunted, one minute slow and deliberate, the next hurtling like a racing car, using the wind. I took photos of a constantly flying Cuckoo occasionally perching on a roadside wire,
and a male Bullfinch flew into a bush and straight out again. That's two new additions to the trip list to-day, didn't think any more were possible.
The beach at Uisken looked most uninviting to-night, gusting wind, grey and quite dark. Still lovely though. Back in our room by 7, ready for to-night's soaps.
Saturday May 16
We couldn't really decide what to do to-day but, a conversation at breakfast with Sue and Richard, newly arrived birders, made us decide on Scoor. They'd seen raptors there yesterday.
Our morning ritual of Fidden first, to see Hares , Whimbrel, Redshank and R B Mergansers. We also love the view across to the Isle of Erraid where RL Stevenson based 'Kidnapped'. The sandy bar is the escape route of his hero.
We met a birder doing a BTO Breeding Birds count - he hadn't seen the Whimbrel and told us we were looking at Lapwing ! Then he saw the birds.......
I was hoping for Hen Harrier photo opportunities at Kintra, we saw the bird but only briefly and distantly. A female Stonechat proved to be more obliging.
Couldn't pass Uisken....hoping for the Sanderling Bryan saw on the beach earlier. No luck. We made the visit to the well-advertised Ardalanish Isle of Mull weavers , arriving in a farmyard at the end of a track. A small and noisy shed where the mechanical loom was at work didn't keep us long - neither did the 'wee shop'. Pam picked up a cross between a specs case and a purse, saw the price, £20, quickly replaced it and walked out. The dog weed up our front tyre and we left.
Having left the cold bag in the bedroom, Pam shopped at the small Spar in Bunessan ( a collection of a few dozen houses round a bay). The road to Scoor is unmarked, a turning on the right after leaving Bunessan.The first mile or so was metalled, the next three were along a stony, potholed track climbing to moors past Loch Assapol and Harrisons Loch. There was a designated parking area for visitors - a small open area looking down on the lochs with a view to the sea in two directions, mountains between. Unfortunately, this morning was heavily overcast with rain of varying quantity most of the time. We walked for a while in a short respite, returning to the car just in time to miss the next lot.
Time for lunch. By the end of it, the rain had stopped, the skies gradually cleared and we ended up with a few hours of sunshine to scope anything moving - just several Buzzards - above the ridges. So occupied doing that, we nearly missed a male Hen Harrier hurrying through a gully. Great views down the glen.
Just as Pam was putting her scope up outside - I was scoping from the car - I called 'Look at that big b....r coming over the hill. A superb adult White-tailed Sea Eagle flew towards us, hassled by Buzzards then Hooded Crows.
They must get fed up.
It then landed on a small rock on the distant hillside for us to admire and attempt photos.
It flew around several times, settling and then rising again before flying off - we thought. Blow me, the one became two and they both returned to settle on the shores of Loch Assapol. We moved to get nearer but still not near enough for good photos unfortunately. There they loafed and so did we.
These photos really are not good enough... but they're mine of some wonderful birds. We must have watched for a total of two hours before driving off, leaving them there. Wonderful way to spend an afternoon.
In the middle of it all we heard that Man U are champions, shame they couldn't beat Arsenal, a mere draw. Having picked up the papers before the shop closed at 6 - and the forgotten cold bag from our room - we suppered at the empty Fidden camp site (a bare area beside the bay)watching Mountain Hares lolloping about.
Sunday May 17
As the wind had eased a little, maybe it was worth giving Iona another go. We caught the first ferry across at 8.45, walked up the hill towards the church and heard our first Corncrake. It appeared to be coming from the iris field behind the Fire Station - which we could just see by leaning on a wall. Immediately, a Corncrake flew across the field from one iris bed to another. Astonishing. After a walk along the top road past the Abbey towards the far end of the island, hearing more birds in the still very strong breeze, we returned for a cuppa and a gift shop browse before boarding the 11.15 ferry .
We hadn't stopped at Loch Na Keal on our round island tour, a further visit seemed propitious. The dog Otter was fishing busily in the ebbing tide at Loch Beg, catching something tasty every time he dived. Couldn't resist another look at the Sea Eagle nest, finding both birds present. The nest is very distant but......
The road around the very large sea Loch na Keal is narrow and rough, few passing places, one side the cliff, the other the sea, often protected by a metal barrier. We eventually found a grassy area where we could park for lunch and have a scope scan. Two Guillemots, one Tystie, one Red-throated and one Great Northern Diver. Six handsome Golden Plovers flew in and landed amongst the sheep for a few minutes before moving on.
Our last Mackies ice-cream at PennyGhael stores and a final visit to Uisken and Fidden. It was raining quite heavily by the time we reached Fidden, one of those late afternoons when you want to switch the light on. A mixed flock of Ringed Plover and Dunlin fed busily on the beach and a lone Swift swept through. Back to find no parking space for the car, it's in front of the Post Office to-night. The ever thoughtful John offered to park his car round the back but where we are is fine. We ate at the pub/restaurant next door for a change and now it's packing time. It's been a very enjoyable and rewarding trip, Jane and John run a most comfortable and welcoming establishment. We love our room, Erraid. Here's to next year.
Faces of Scotland
Lichen
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